The Land of a Thousand Hills… Rwanda

When I am traveling people always ask me where I am from when I tell them they always say “Wow New Zealand that’s the most beautiful place ever”. I agree New Zealand is stunning but many people have never set foot in Rwanda. It really is the land of a Thousand hills and maybe one of the most stunning and green places on the planet. The hills are endless, the smiles radiate and you leave feeling a sense of true fullness from the country and its people.

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The curse of an Identity Card

Every Rwandan was expected to carry round an identity card prior to the 1994 Genocide. This card classified them into a class group, Hutu, Tutsi or Twa. Being labeled a Tutsi was like being handed a death sentence, over 100 days starting in April 1994 Tutsi’s were hunted like animals and brutally killed. This identity card lies in Ntarama church where over 5,000 Tutsi found their final resting place.

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Genocide

Machetes, clubs, axes lye scattered on the church floor what stories they could tell of a bitter history and slaughter of so many innocent victims. The killings were personal and painful. People were hacked and many lay suffering before meeting their final death. No Tutsi would be spared, babies and women were tortured and raped before finally being killed.

Many fled to churches to take refuge believing they would be safe. With over 95% of the population claiming Christian faith in 1994 the assumption that sheltering inside a church would be the right choice.  If the walls of the Churches could speak there would be bitter screams and certain pain etched in them. Over 5,000 Tutsi faced their last days inside Ntarama Church… never again!

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A brighter future

Children’s eyes shine and people speak of a much brighter future. When speaking with a survivor of the Genocide he said the best revenge he could have is by being successful. Rwanda certainly has progressed and is even more progressive thinking than many other countries. There is a lot we can learn from Rwanda, with plastic bags being illegal and the monthly ‘Umganda’, this is a country making great progress. Umganda is a mandatory community service where on the last Saturday of every month everyone in the country reports to their local district from 8am till noon in order to perform their civic duties which can range from cleaning up the streets, cutting trees or repairing buildings.

Education continues to be the key to bringing many countries out of poverty and building a brighter future. However, this has to be the right education. An education that fits the country and works with the culture it has set out to educate. Getting more girls in school and keeping them there longer not only delays pregnancy but is the way to build a brighter future for generations and the entire nation.

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Culture & Tourism

Music and dance are have an important place in tradition in Rwanda. Intore dancers once only performed for the Royal court but these days can be found performing at many cultural centers in Rwanda. At Iby’wacu Cultural Village in Kingi (http://cbtrwanda.org) you can be treated to Intore dancing, local drumming and other customs from ex-poachers who are now working to conserve the rich culture of Rwanda.

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Gorillas in the Mist

The Mountain Gorillas are now by far the leading reasons tourists come to Rwanda. With only 720 estimated to be remaining there has been a huge amount of effort in recent years to maintain and help build increase the Gorilla population. There were 22 new gorillas named at this year’s ‘Kwita Izina’ naming ceremony in Rwanda. Hard working organisatons, such as Gorilla Doctors (http://gorilladoctors.org/), work in the parks putting a huge amount of time and love into keeping these incredible Great Apes healthy and numbers growing each year.

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Every Day in May Reflection

May is over… and India has been more than incredible! While I have captured a lot there is so much more to this city and its people. You can visit India but you will never see or understand all of India neither should you try to. I recommend slowing down, absorbing more and keeping your eyes open.

I have found everyday people to be the heart and soul of this country… the importance of what they do at the foundation level would leave many parts of this city not functioning. The systems and hands that things pass through are more complex than I will ever understand. To an outsider it looks like chaos and unorganized, many come and think they can improve or help and leave realizing there is something greater even if it is slower and involves more steps. That is how people survive and live life.

The toughest part of the project has been getting into the heart of Dharavi and hearing the stories of the people. Already phase one of ‘Dharavi land take over’ is in progress… stage by stage they will rip the heart and soul of what I believe keeps a lot of this city going. Not to mention throwing people out of their homes with no remuneration. It’s sad that life seems to be all about money rather than people!

While May is over I will continue to photograph what is happening in Mumbai!

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May 31st… Women in India

Yesterday I heard a story of a malnourished girl. She is 16. She has 3 younger brothers. She only gets whatever is left over after her brothers have eaten. This is not enough for her to function on and at school she has no focus and constantly daydreams. Her teacher asked me “what can I do about this?” It is heartbreaking but life for women in India. Girls in India are 50% more likely to die than boys the same age. In India, to prevent sex-selection abortion, laws now bar doctors from telling a pregnant woman the sex of the unborn child. If you go into a hospital you will see signs on the walls warning of a fine for even asking the doctor the gender of the child. A frightening statistic, I recently read, estimates that an Indian girl dies from discrimination every 4 minutes. Something must change; it will take more than one strong man to change a statistic!

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May 30th… Alphonso Mangoes

Mango season lasts only a few months, one of these being May, and boxes of Alphonso mangoes can be seen all over the streets of Mumbai. Considered one of the best mangoes being super sweet and flavoursome the majority of the Alphonso mangoes are grown in Maharashtra state just south of Mumbai.  Most are consumed here in India, as many countries will not import them for fear of introducing unknown fungi and pests into their country. Sad for others but good for those of us living in India and enjoying the sweet season.

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May 29th… Dhobi Ghats

The world’s largest open-air laundry is situated here in Mumbai. Here more than 200 Dhobi families work together to beat the dirt from the cities hospitals, hotels and other industries washing in an old traditional way. It is estimated that more than 5,000 people work collecting the laundry, washing, hanging, drying, ironing, folding and returning it back to its source. There is a very efficient system of labeling the washing so its gets back to the right owner and not a single peg is used to attach the clothing to the lines. Even traditional tools are used for ironing; this iron has coals inside it which last for 3 hours before needing to be replaced. Industrial washers and dryers have made their way on the scene making life a little easier in the Monsoon season.

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